Spy vs. Spy

Our restaurant critic gets busted at Gravitas, so we send in our counterintelligence team

Its weaknesses are the slow service and the bar. Some members of the waitstaff are quite good, but overall the kitchen-to-table flow just isn't happening yet. And the bar, with signature cocktails that neither the waiters nor the bartender has ever heard of, advertised beers that aren't available, and a lack of ordinary mixers, is a mess.

As for the experiment, it's clear I was treated much better than Josh. The point isn't to punish Gravitas for recognizing a restaurant critic. That's not their fault. But their natural reaction -- lavishing me with superior service, providing special items not available to the general public at no charge, and making sure to give me a better piece of meat than the average guy on the other side of the restaurant -- clearly illustrates the value of anonymity.

Gravitas's strength is in "slow food" entrées like the 
beef Burgundy.
Troy Fields
Gravitas's strength is in "slow food" entrées like the beef Burgundy.

Location Info



807 Taft
Houston, TX 77019

Category: Restaurant >

Region: River Oaks


Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Brunch hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays. Dinner hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Fridays

Spaetzle with Gruyre: $7
Roast chicken and corn bread: $18
Beef Burgundy: $17
Steak frites: $27
Lemon tart: $6.50

807 Taft, 713-522-0995.

When I eat at a restaurant unrecognized, I can provide readers with a good idea of what their own experience might be like. When I'm spotted, I can only describe what it's like to be pampered. And unless you're a celebrity, that kind of restaurant review doesn't do you much good.

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