Spy vs. Spy

Its weaknesses are the slow service and the bar. Some members of the waitstaff are quite good, but overall the kitchen-to-table flow just isn't happening yet. And the bar, with signature cocktails that neither the waiters nor the bartender has ever heard of, advertised beers that aren't available, and a lack of ordinary mixers, is a mess.

As for the experiment, it's clear I was treated much better than Josh. The point isn't to punish Gravitas for recognizing a restaurant critic. That's not their fault. But their natural reaction -- lavishing me with superior service, providing special items not available to the general public at no charge, and making sure to give me a better piece of meat than the average guy on the other side of the restaurant -- clearly illustrates the value of anonymity.

Troy Fields

Gravitas's strength is in "slow food" entrées like the beef Burgundy.

Location Info

Map

Gravitas

807 Taft
Houston, TX 77019

Category: Closed

Region: River Oaks

Photos

0 user reviews	Write A Review
Save to foursquare	0

Details

Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Brunch hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays. Dinner hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Fridays

Spaetzle with Gruyère: $7
Roast chicken and corn bread: $18
Beef Burgundy: $17
Steak frites: $27
Lemon tart: $6.50

807 Taft, 713-522-0995.

Related Content

• UPDATED: Gravitas Closes Unexpectedly Over the Weekend
  January 9, 2012
• Health Department Roundup
  March 16, 2012
• Lone Star Chefs: It's Not Always about Being Bigger, They're Just Better
  April 5, 2012
• Festival Alert: The Montrose Winter Social Set For December 3
  November 16, 2011
• Freeway View
  September 8, 2011

More About

• Scott Tycer
• Taft
• Josh Harkinson
• Eating Out
• Restaurant Reviews

Like this Story?

Sign up for the Dining Newsletter: The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.

Privacy Policy Cancel Continue

When I eat at a restaurant unrecognized, I can provide readers with a good idea of what their own experience might be like. When I'm spotted, I can only describe what it's like to be pampered. And unless you're a celebrity, that kind of restaurant review doesn't do you much good.