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A New Tony's Order

A Houston mainstay becomes a destination for culinary thrill-seekers

When nighttime rolls around, stomachs start growling and dinner choices are discussed, one option never mentioned among my ilk is Tony's. This is for several reasons, some of which, if I'm being honest, are born of my own prejudices.

It's a dinosaur. It's snobby. It's a retirement home. In short, it's an old-world joint catering to old-world cats with old-world money, and I'm not a member of AARP.

Of course, I don't know anyof this firsthand. I've never been. But I'm a cook, and cooks talk to other cooks. When we aren't telling dick jokes or calling each other "gay" in Spanish, we're talking about eating. We save our meager wages and head to the Aries of the world as much for the education as the palate-pleasing, gut-busting debauchery. When we do, we report back to our brothers in the grease-soaked trenches. "So-and-so is an overrated dump." "This-and-that is out of this frigging world!"

The venison chop comes with an itty-bitty baby 
pumpkin stuffed full of cabbage and shiitake 
mushrooms.
Troy Fields
The venison chop comes with an itty-bitty baby pumpkin stuffed full of cabbage and shiitake mushrooms.

Location Info

Map

Tony's Restaurant

3755 Richmond Ave.
Houston, TX 77046

Category: Restaurant > European

Region: Greenway Plaza

Details

Lunch hours: 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Dinner hours: 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Bar serves food all day weekdays starting at 11:30 a.m.

DINNER
Truffle risotto: $15
Raviolo di manzo: $9
Diver scallops: $19
Asian tuna: $31
Veal chop: $39
Venison chop: $38

LUNCH
Burrata: $9
Chili: $14
Crescent express: $17
Portobello salad: $12

11 Greenway Plaza, suite 515, 713-622-6778

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It is unfair of me, of course, to accept these opinions as fact, but I do.

When Tony's moved in February from its stuffy old confines to the former Maxim's on Richmond, spent a crap-ton on refurbishing, and hired on hot youngFrench-trained chef Olivier Ciesielski to help with the transition, the community of cooks started cackling once more. This time, instead of talking it down, they started talking it up.

Gone are the "Jacket required!" separatist snobbery, the cigar-chomping oil moguls leering from favored seating and the heavy cream sauces mounted with blocks of butter. This is a New Tony's Order -- one more focused on opening its arms to a larger number of culinary thrill-seekers than ever. The country-club atmosphere is a thing of the past.

Could it be? One thing's for sure, it's time I add my own voice to the cooks' chorus.

After the complimentary valets get the privilege of parking my clunker, we're whisked past parting glass doors surrounded by walls of ever-flowing water. Waiting on the other side is a shallow, very well lit, very tan dining room accented by a huge Jesús Moroles sculpture called The Three Graces, featuring what appear to be three headless women bowing to one another.

We're seated, menus are dispersed, and I'm quickly reminded of another "fact" that's been keeping me from Tony's -- only this one is undeniably true -- it's damn expensive.

Cow, baby cow and game entrées run around $40 at Tony's after dark. Fish and fowl hover around the $30 mark. Appetizers offer little relief to the weary wallet, hanging out in the mid-teens.

We decide to share a trio of apps, picking at each plate with our forks like ravenous hawks.

The diver scallops sit on opposite ends of a sleek, rectangular plate and are adorned with fat lumps of crab. They sit in a puddle of mildly tart tomato sauce that's bright red despite a touch of cream. The meaty mollusks -- cooked perfectly -- and plump crab are right at home in the flavorful tomato cream, and hints of scallion oil add a refreshing, palate-cleansing element.

Rich truffle risotto is accompanied by freshly grated, sharp ribbons of Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with a dollop of foamed cream. The skill involved in its flawless preparation is breathtaking, but its price -- $15 for what couldn't have been more than half a cup -- has left a bit to be desired.

The most inspired appetizer gobbled is the mind-blowing raviolo di manzo, a pasta pillow stuffed full of tender, braised and shredded short-rib meat. About six inches in diameter, the plump raviolo swims in a bright, tangy sauce laced with sage that's almost, forgive my saying, barbecuelike. Once the sauce soaks into the moist meat, be warned, eyeballs will roll back into skulls.

They'll keep rolling when the entrées arrive. A healthy slab of grilled tuna rests atop crunchy spears of asparagus and thick cuts of grilled portobello mushrooms playfully called "planks" on the menu. The Asian-inspired, ginger-spiked sauce is chock-full of such flavor, it's near-potent. A small bit goes a long way.

A medium-rare veal chop is dressed simply with a rich beef-stock reduction and could be cut with a wooden spoon. My venison makes its home on a plate with an itty-bitty baby pumpkin stuffed full of cabbage and shiitake mushrooms. Its jus is tinged with tart, juice-bleeding blackberries. The dish screams "fall" in the middle of winter.

The most remarkable entrée of the night is a simple seared sea bass. Accompanied by the same cabbage-and-mushroom hash as the venison, its crispy brown sear gives way to a lush, white fillet that's so meaty, its mouth-feel is like chicken, only less dense, as if it's been pumped full of air.

After stomachs are filled and belts are loosened, the check arrives. To our dismay, our shared Grand Marnier soufflé, Tony's "signature dessert," is a checkbook-busting $44, or $11 per person -- something we certainly would've passed on had we been smart enough to ask about the price. But it simply wasn't on our minds when the soufflé was recommended to us the second we sat down. Nor did we know how huge it was -- the towering, behemoth pound of egg whites, in fact, takes a whopping 45 minutes to bake. Having no idea that it would look like an architect's model for the Astrodome, we naively asked for two. The waiter said, "Oh, one is enough."

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