Ever wonder how dishes get their names? The La Gringa ($11.95) at Maria Selma (1617 Richmond, 713-528-4920), a menu specialty, is an interesting example. It consists of thin slices of pork marinated in Mexican seasonings, fried with oodles of onions and tropical pineapple, and topped with melted white cheese. According to one waiter, the cheese is "as pale and as white as white girls." It's hard to argue with the comparison.