The Chinese chicken salad ($8.50) at Barnaby's Cafe (414 West Gray, 713-522-8898) is an enigma, since it doesn't appear to contain any Chinese ingredients. Surely the name doesn't refer to the spicy peanut sauce doused on top of the pyramid-shaped salad. Everyone knows that peanut sauce is Thai, not Chinese. But who cares about its name or ethnic origin? This colorful salad is superb. Made of thin strips of grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, red cabbage, carrots, red peppers and crispy tortillas, the salad is tossed in a wonderfully refreshing lime vinaigrette before the spicy peanut sauce is drizzled on top.