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Two-Handed JobRuggles Cafe BakeryBy Paul GalvaniPublished on April 20, 2006The melted mozzarella alone just can't hold together the thin slices of spicy meat and caramelized onion in the roast pork loin sandwich ($8.95) at Ruggles Cafe Bakery(2365 Rice Boulevard, 713-520-6662). No matter how you eat it, this is a sloppy meal; once you've grasped the sandwich with both hands, you won't dare put it down. Its spiciness comes not from the herbed focaccia but from the chipotle mayonnaise; the sweetness comes from the addition of mango. Mess or no mess, this two-handed sandwich disappears quickly, leaving you wanting more.
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