Classic Cuban: The masitas ($14.95) at El Meson (2425 University Boulevard, 713-522-9306) aren't cookies, though in some Hispanic cultures, that's what the word means. Instead, the dish is masitas de puerco, a.k.a. carnitas. Chunks of pork tenderloin are pan-fried in olive oil with almost as much garlic as pork, along with some citrus flavoring, normally bitter orange. It comes with black beans and rice and slices of sweet plantain, which are de rigueur at any Cuban table.