Chef Hugo Ortega of Hugo's (1602 Westheimer, 713-524-7744) brought this dish to Houston from his native Puebla, and we can all be grateful that he did. The cemita ($9.95) is named for its freshly baked, slightly sweet sesame seed bun. To make a cemita sandwich, Ortega takes the bread, removes its doughy interior and fills it with delectable Mexican ingredients. He smears both sides with refried black beans and a good dollop of crema fresca cheese, then adds some lettuce and tomato. Finally, thin strips of pork, dry-rubbed with Mexican spices, are fried and combined with avocado and sweet red peppers for a delicious filling.