It's hard to find crab cakes that aren't made with lots of fillers. But at Forno's of Italy (6439 West 43rd, 713-688-8757), they're full of lump crabmeat and little else except seasonings. Pan-fried to a golden brown, they have a crispy exterior and a wonderfully soft interior. In the crab cake fettuccine ($13.99), two of these delicious creations sit perched atop a heap of steaming hot pasta in a creamy cilantro sauce. The best way to eat this dish is to mash the crab cakes into the sauce and enjoy all the flavors together.