The "golden duck" ($15.95) at the Golden Room (1209 Montrose, 713-524-9614) is a thing of beauty. As with many Thai dishes, the presentation is as important as the taste. A whole, lightly battered breast, which has a crispy exterior and a tender interior, sits in a dark brown sauce that's sweet and, at the same time, tart. Making the plate visually appealing is a bright slice of pineapple and a cherry. Broccoli spears and carrots finish off the garnish.