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Escalator Buffet

Bombay Brasserie's new second-story location will have to do for the time being

This time, instead of lamb chops in the lamb curry, there were ground lamb kabob chunks, or as my smart-aleck companion called them, "lamb leftovers du jour." It was a serviceable lunch buffet, but not a great lunch buffet.

But I really dreaded going to Bombay Brasserie for dinner. How many times have you returned to an Indian place where you enjoyed a great lunch buffet only to find that each and every item on the dinner menu costs as much as the entire buffet?

In fact, the ratio at Bombay Brasserie is even worse. The best things I ate for dinner there, prawn Madras at $15.95 and lamb vindaloo at $14.95, cost way more than the lunch buffet. And they came with nothing but pappadums and ice water on the side.

The Viceroy of India dinner for two is just like the buffet -- only better.
Troy Fields
The Viceroy of India dinner for two is just like the buffet -- only better.

Location Info

Map

Bombay Brasserie

2414 University Blvd.
Houston, TX 77005

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Kirby-West U

Details

Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Dinner hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, and 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Lunch buffet: $10.95
Viceroy of India dinner for two: $44.95
Saag paneer: $10.95
Prawn Madras: $15.95
Lamb vindaloo: $14.95

2414 University Boulevard (second floor), 713-355-2000.

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Yet dinner at Bombay Brasserie turned out to be by far the most enjoyable of my three visits. It wasn't all that expensive, either. The secret was taking six people to dinner and ordering the massive Viceroy of India's dinner for two.

The big spread costs $45 and it includes tandoori chicken, tandoori prawn, saag paneer, seekh kabob, chicken tikka, chicken tikka masala, dal, nan, rice and cucumber salad. To this we added the spicy prawns and fiery lamb vindaloo and ended up with a bill of $12.83 per person -- before the Kingfisher Indian beers.

The Viceroy spread supplies you with just about everything you'd find on the lunch buffet, only hotter, fresher and in a better presentation. We asked for the prawns and lamb extra-spicy, and they were the best things on the table.

Bombay Brasserie's prawn Madras is a sensational shrimp dish made with silky-textured long-cooked onions and spiked with mustard seed, cumin seed and a four-alarm dose of chiles and garlic.

The lamb vindaloo comes in a heady aromatic sauce loaded with chile peppers, ginger, garlic, cardamom, black pepper and a host of other spices. Loaded onto a triangle of hot nan spread with black lentil dal, it made a hell of a taco.

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