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What's special about the "special artichoke dip" ($8.50) at Amedeo's Italian Restaurant & Bar (22704 Loop 494, Kingwood, 281-359-4451)? For one, it's not listed on the menu. But what really sets the dip apart is the welcome addition of tasso, a lean, cured pork popular in Cajun cooking, which adds a rich, smoky note to an already rich appetizer. The cheese is creamy and gooey enough to make it stick nicely to the accompanying thin slices of crisp garlic toast, and the artichoke and spinach lend color and texture to the dish.

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