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Divine Vin

But what made me fall in rapture was Estes's reinvention of the ham-and-cheese sandwich. Thick cuts of tasso ham were piled on top of a French-toasted piece of bread, served open-face style. White cheddar was melted over the tomato, and it was all topped off with a fried egg. Sure, it might look like a heart attack, but one that will surely send you to heaven.

It will be interesting to see if Vin makes it through the long haul. It's a bit pricey for dinner, but its location right in the heart of the Theater District means it's sure to attract diners seeking a fancy meal as part of a big night out.

The reinvented ham and cheese sandwich makes a great lunchtime escape.
Troy Fields
The reinvented ham and cheese sandwich makes a great lunchtime escape.

Details

Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Dinner hours: 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, and 5 p.m. to midnights Fridays and Saturdays. Weekday happy hour (drinks only): 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Sundays.

Housemade Sweet Potato Agnolotti: $8

Tuna Tartare Diablo: $12

Stove Oven Flatbreads: $11 each

Asparagus Salad: $9

Filet of Beef with Lobster Mac & Cheese: $38

Veal Osso Bucco: $34

Olive Crusted King Salmon: $25

"World's Tiniest Desserts": $3 each

534 Texas, 713-237-9600.

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And don't let the somewhat "too cool for school" feel of the restaurant deter you — it's an oasis during the busy day for lunch, and a great place to pop in for a coffee or cocktail and to taste some tiny ­desserts.

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