By Kaitlin Steinberg
By Minh T Truong
By Molly Dunn
By Brooke Viggiano
By Kaitlin Steinberg
By Molly Dunn
By Molly Dunn
By Eating Our Words
Antica Osteria is a quiet little Italian restaurant in Rice Village. There are only 13 tables in the cozy main dining room, five or six more in the dark bar and half a dozen out on the patio. It's a good place for a romantic dinner, despite some quirks.
My dining companion and I were seated at a white-linen-covered table in the dining room near a window dressed with tasseled curtains of a type that might remind you of a funeral parlor. The walls had been treated with an antique bronze faux finish. A dried flower arrangement with feathers was displayed in an ornate vase by the front door. The decorating was dreadful, but there was still something classy about the place.
In Italian, antica means "ancient" and osteria means "tavern." Judging by the average age of the patrons, you might guess the name means "tavern of the ancients." It couldn't possibly mean "ancient tavern," because the restaurant is relatively new. Detering Book Gallery occupied the location just a couple of years ago.
Houston, TX 77005
Region: Kirby-West U
Lobster fra diavolo: $24
Ravioli with porcini: $13
Shrimp in wine sauce: $18
At Antica Osteria, the specials are written in chalk on a blackboard that the waitperson brings to your table. That's where the freshest fish, choicest meats and seasonal pasta offerings are listed. In three visits, I came to the conclusion that pasta is the wisest thing to order at Antica Osteria, and the noodles on the blackboard are apt to be the best.
That's where I found the restaurant's terrific version of lobster fra diavolo. My dining companions warned that at the $24 price, it would probably be nothing more than a couple of lobster chunks in a pile of macaroni. It turned out to be a whole "papershell lobster" cut in half with lots of spicy spaghetti in seafood sauce mounded in the middle.
Once a year, lobsters molt their old shells and create new, larger ones. For the first few months after molting, the shells remain very soft. You can tear the papershell lobster apart with your bare hands. The lobster inside hasn't grown into the shell yet, so it doesn't yield as much meat; they sell for quite a bit less than hardshell lobsters. But for $24, the lobster fra diavolo at Antica Osteria was still a bargain.
The ravioli al sugo di porcini, round cheese ravioli with porcini mushrooms in tomato basil sauce, were excellent. The dried porcinis had a meaty texture that gave substance to the tomato and basil "sugo." And the rich sauce saved the ricotta and parmesan-stuffed pasta pillows from blandness.
Spaghetti alla carbonara normally means spaghetti with pancetta or bacon and eggs. I make it by sautéing chopped onion and bacon pieces, tossing them with spaghetti and beaten eggs and adding lots of parmesan. At Antica Osteria, they went light on the bacon and eggs and heavy on the cream. It tasted like a cross between carbonara and alfredo sauce, by far the richest version of spaghetti alla carbonara I've had.
Spaghetti alla chitarra means "spaghetti from the guitar" in Italian. It is a special spaghetti from Abruzzo that is cut on a wooden box with lots of wires stretched across it, hence the guitar name. The pasta comes out very thin.
One of my dining companions, who fell in love with the guitar pasta on a trip to Italy, was disappointed to discover that the spaghetti alla chitarra at Antica Osteria was just plain spaghetti in a boring sauce of olives and diced tomatoes. Why they call it "alla chitarra," I have no idea. Maybe they listen to The Mighty Orq while they make it. Four tablespoons of crushed red pepper and a half a bowl of parmesan helped the flavorless dish slightly.
The carpaccio was the best of the appetizers. It was a small plate of bright-red, raw, shaved beef filet with rectangular chunks of parmesan on top, all drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil. The meat and hard cheese tasted great on the restaurant's crusty Italian bread. Too bad there was so little of it.
Antipasto rustico, a collection of very ordinary salami and cheese slices with olives, was dull, and so was an asparagus salad from the blackboard menu. A simple pile of fresh peppery-tasting arugula tossed in vinaigrette was the best salad I sampled there.
When dining in Italy, I have always liked the antipasti and pastas better than the ho-hum roasted meats and dried-out seafood that inevitably dominates the secondi (main courses) section of the menu. So I guess I shouldn't complain about the boring secondi at Antica Osteria. But I will anyway.
Gamberoni alla russo, which the menu described as "lightly floured shrimp pan-fried in a light wine sauce," was just as innocuous as the menu promised. It might as well be renamed "shrimp lite." Equally lackluster was the trota in padella, pan-fried rainbow trout with capers and fresh herbs. I have had more exciting preparations of Mrs. Paul's fish sticks.
A blackboard special of filet mignon in brandy cream sauce was ordered medium-rare. It was beyond medium, on its way to medium-well, when I cut into it. The waitress insisted on taking it back, and I congratulate the restaurant's integrity in making me another steak.