The "king crab legs grilled in cheese sauce" listed on the menu ($24) at Dozo (2938 W. Sam Houston Pkwy. S., 713-785-8899) may not sound too inspired, but don't let this simple description fool you — this is a startlingly flavorful dish. After being boiled and split in two, four large crab legs are covered in a fabulous sauce of mayonnaise and Parmesan and quick-browned. The mayonnaise makes the sauce wonderfully creamy while the Parmesan imparts a delicate flavor. These legs are desirable indeed.