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We like it raw: The hockey-puck-size beef tartare ($15) at Corleone Bar & Grill (813 Jackson Hill, 713-863-8223) comes with a raw quail egg sitting on top of the raw meat. Usually, a chicken egg is served with this dish, but that's not the only difference between Chef Ryan Hildebrand's version and the traditional one. Instead of capers, Hildebrand uses fresh oregano from the herb garden behind the restaurant. He also adds finely diced sweet pickles, which pushes this dish over the top. A good portion of peppery arugula is served on the side, counterbalancing the sweetness of the pickle.

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