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Tropical Heat at Caribbean Jerk Cuisine

Cooling off — and breaking a sweat — at this Richmond Avenue joint

The little tilapia isn't enough to satisfy my big appetite, so I order the oxtails. The Jamaican woman goes back to the kitchen, and I hear some more giggling. I wonder if they're laughing at me. When she returns with my second plate of food, she confirms my suspicions by laughing and nodding at the guy next to me, saying, "I don't know where he is putting all of this."

I attempt to cut into an oxtail, expecting it to be fork-tender, but I'm disappointed to find the meat still stuck to the bone. I love a perfectly braised dish, with the tough cut of meat cooked for hours until it's so tender it falls off the bone, then melts in your mouth. I want to send my plate back and tell them to give it another hour in the pot, but I would just piss off the cook and come off as a jerk (pun intended). And anyway, I can still get the meat off with my fork if I apply enough pressure; it is flavorful and sweet, and the spice makes my nose run a little bit and my forehead sweat.

Do yourself a favor and try the tilapia in brown sauce.
Daniel Kramer
Do yourself a favor and try the tilapia in brown sauce.

Location Info

Map

Caribbean Jerk Cuisine

9334 Richmond Ave.
Houston, TX 77063

Category: Restaurant > Caribbean

Region: Outer Loop - SW

Details

Hours:11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays;11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Jerk chicken wings: $4.75

Jamaican beef patty: $1.89

Fried dumpling: $1

Coco bread: $1.45

Island plantains: $1

Jerk chicken: $9.50

Curried goat: $9

Tilapia dinner: $10

Red Stripe: $4

9334 Richmond Ave., 713-784-6626.

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After I finish off my chewy disks of meat, I ask Giggles if any of the desserts are made in-house. When she says no, I decide to pass up the wide selection of ice creams, even with flavors like rum raisin. I look over the dry erase board's list of fresh juices and wonder if I have enough room in my belly for some soursop or beet/ginger juice, but I decide not to destroy my buzz. After another cold Red Stripe, I head back out into the humidity.

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