A Taste for San San Tofu

Try the tofu: Tofu has a reputation for being lifeless and tasteless. But the fried lemongrass tofu ($3) at San San Tofu (6445 Wilcrest, 281-988-5666) dispels any such notion. Presented in an unglamorous plastic container with a lid that says, "I'm ready to be taken home and eaten," the golden tofu is cut into cubes and seasoned with tiny pieces of lemongrass, with slices of raw jalapeño on top that will get your attention. The fried outside is crispy, yet the inside has the soft and chewy texture so distinctive of tofu.