Just Like Heaven: Isla Coqui

Daniel Kramer

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Just like heaven: The tres leches ($5) at Isla Coqui (1801 Dur­ham, 713-861-1000) is a four-inch square of heaven — a cake so incredibly moist, if you squeezed it like a sponge, you'd extract at least a half cup of sweetened condensed milk. And that's just one of the three leches, or milks, used to make this Latin dessert: There's also evaporated milk and cream (anyone considering calories will probably have stopped reading). Orange and raspberry syrup drizzled around the plate break up the dessert's monochromatic scheme. Tres leches is traditionally served at celebrations, but these days, it's everywhere. And a good thing — the one served here at Isla Coqui is too scrumptious to save for a special occasion.