FLEMING'S OLD-FASHIONED

I was in the mood for something simple and classic. I wanted to dial it back a few years. I wanted bourbon. I wanted mahogany, low lighting, Sinatra...you get the idea. So imagine my surprise when we got to the bar at Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar (2405 W. Alabama; 713-520-5959) and heard Death Cab on the stereo. I quickly realized that this ain't your father's steakhouse. There were two guys in Ed Hardy T-shirts. There was a young couple probably on the all-important date No. 2, her with salon hair and a martini, he with a Scotch and a disconcerting display of dude décolletage. Somebody by the TV asked for a Mind Eraser shot. And then there was me, probably looking a little confused (and lame) as I ordered my old-fashioned. Oh, the dichotomy. Ace bartender Emily Grymes clearly understood my predicament. She mixed my drink with a heavy hand, nice and strong, as she prefers and as God intended. All was right with the world again. More rounds and more bemused people-watching ensued. As we paid the bill, I wondered if the waiters would soon sport white belts and skinny jeans. Stay tuned.

2 ounces Maker's Mark bourbon

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Splash of club soda

1 sugar cube

Orange slice

1 maraschino cherry

Place sugar, bitters and soda in a rocks glass; add fruit and muddle to preference; fill glass with ice and add bourbon; cue Frank.