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Chef Robert Gadsby Is Back With Bedford

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The long-awaited return of Chef Robert Gadsby is ­finally here with his new place, which he named Bedford (1001 Studewood, 713-880-1001) after the town in northern England where he grew up. We caught up with Gadsby two days after the opening. "Right now, my crew is in a state of shell shock. We wanted to get it right before we opened," he said. "I built this from the ground up. It's over 10,000 square feet over two floors. The restaurant is downstairs, and the banquet facility is upstairs. On the roof, we're planning a Victory Garden, which will be totally hydroponic."

Asked about his menu, Gadsby says, "It's really a culmination of all the things I've wanted to do. It's going to be market-driven, and the menu will change accordingly. I call it cross-cultural American, where distinct elements meet in a single recipe. It's food that moves, excites and persuades the palate." Presently, starters include torched scallops with cauliflower soubise and duck foie gras with apple cider gelée; entrées include Icelandic halibut with haricot vert and Gulf shrimp and crab with coconut milk shellfish.

Gadsby is also planning on doing something special each week. "On Thursday through Saturday, I will be cooking for ten people at a time at my Chef's Table. It'll be a seven-course tasting menu with accompanying wines for $150 per person." Sign us up.

 
  • Jackson Girl 02/02/2009 9:59:00 PM

    Bedford's was wonderful-from the atmosphere (refined and sophisticated, with a definite eye to detail), impeccable service to the cuisine-a dining delight. Gadsby has created a dining experience that focuses on providing superb dishes with contrasting flavors, such as a warm butternut squash soup, that provides a satisfying hearty taste mixed with a wee bit of sweetness. My cousins who were with me tried two beautifully presented entrees, and my definite choice for #1 delicious taste of the evening-the sole. Delicious! Only one negative-the lobster salad. Almost an afterthought, as if Gadsby decided, "Well, I guess we have to have an entree salad, and it needs to be worth the $25 or so we'll charge, so we'll throw some lobster in there and be done" It was served in a plain brown bowl-rather small for an entree-sitting on a plain, white salad plate. Just underwhelming greens with some Roma tomatoes and a few chunks of lobster that weren't flavorful, but were a bit overcooked. A real surprise in view of the other exquisite flavors of the evening. I wouldn't let this keep me from returning-on the contrary, I look forward to another visit when I return to Houston. You must try the "Chocolate-Chocolate-Chocolate dessert!! Incredible. Close your eyes to slowly savor the beignet-like chocolate-filled pastries. Nirvana! We left the restaurant in a relaxed and well-fed haze, sublimely content and well-fed. Thanks, Bedford!

  • Alva 12/10/2008 10:50:00 PM

    He built a nice restaurant but does not have enough parking. It's right next to a residential area and is causing parking problems. Very irresponsible.

 

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