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Flea Market French

Georges Guy is back in a big way with La Brocante Cafe.

I still had some Syrah left in my wineglass when we finished our entrées, so I asked busboy Guy if he could bring me a little cheese. He was happy to oblige. We finished our wine with a small sampling of brie, goat cheese and Roquefort served with some bread and salad greens. That's one sharp busboy.

For dessert, we had a poached pear with vanilla ice cream covered with chocolate sauce. The ice cream desserts come in what looks like a taco salad shell — only it's made of a sweet batter instead of tortilla dough.

While I highly recommend that you visit La Brocante as soon and as often as possible, I have to say I enjoyed my lunch visit more than dinner. The restaurant faces west, and despite a phalanx of patio umbrellas and stout window shades, the intense rays of the setting sun are warm and annoying. And they're going to get worse. Hopefully the Guys will find some sort of sunshade or vegetative barrier to solve the problem, but until they do, wait until after dark if you're going for dinner.

The duck confit salad is a spectacular ­combination of flavors.
Troy Fields
The duck confit salad is a spectacular ­combination of flavors.

Location Info

Map

La Brocante Cafe

2825 S. Kirkwood
Houston, TX 77082

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Outer Loop - SW

Details

Lunch hours:11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Dinner hours: 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, and 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Fish soup: $8

Confit salad: $12

Oysters: $8.50

Escargot: $8.50

Snapper" $20

2825 S. Kirkwood, 281-556-0606.

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The duck confit salad didn't appear on the dinner menu. I am guessing that the dish was an attempt by chef Guy to come up with something a little lighter for the midday meal. Which makes me suspect that the lunch menu may be the place to look for chef Guy's best ideas.

Besides, lingering over a glass of wine or coffee and dessert at La Brocante in the late afternoon is a wonderfully decadent indulgence, if you can find the time.

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