Roast Beef and Fried Rice

Calliope's turns out authentic New Orleans food with an Asian twist

We asked whether or not the fries were hand-cut. And Carnley, who is the only waitress I've ever had at the restaurant, launched into a long explanation about several failed experiments to produce satisfactory hand-cut fries. She ended up settling on a frozen product. We split a small order anyway.

What we got was a plate of fries with two squares of partially melted American cheese singles and some gravy on top. The cheese was lame; Calliope's gravy was tasty, though it wasn't as rich as BB's. The frozen shoestring fries at BB's stood up to the gravy better, too.

Odd — and delicious ­— pairing: roast beef sandwich and fried rice (back).
Odd — and delicious ­— pairing: roast beef sandwich and fried rice (back).

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The Cajun Stop

2130 Jefferson St.
Houston, TX 77003

Category: Restaurant > Cajun

Region: East End

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Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

Fries with gravy and cheese: $3.59

Small roast beef w/gravy poor boy: $7.35

Regular soft shell crab poor boy: $13.95

Fisherman's platter: $17.95

Shrimp fried rice: $5.15

2130 Jefferson, 713-222-8333.

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Then again, BB's charges eight bucks for the Tex-Cajun Virgin, while a small plate of french fries with cheese and gravy at Calliope's is only $3.60. And somehow, we managed to finish it.

The battered Cajun fries I got on another visit were a lot more interesting. And the com tam I got with the "fisherman's paradise" fried seafood platter was probably the best side Calliope's has to offer.

The seafood platter came with two piping hot and wonderfully crunchy catfish filets, four big butterflied fried shrimp, two fat, perfectly fried oysters, and a little softshell crab. Carnley supplied some Kraft tartar sauce packets and a squeeze bottle of a weird and wonderful orange sauce she described as her own homemade tartar sauce. It tasted like a mayo, mustard and Tabasco concoction.

Calliope's Po-Boy has been open less than a month, and there are still a few bugs to work out. The salads are boring, and there are no desserts yet. I vote that Carnley keep looking for better frozen french fries.

But this is as close to a real New Orleans poor boy shop as we've had in Houston since Original New Orleans Poor Boys on Main Street closed. If you find yourself craving a roast beef poor boy with a generous application of gravy, it's already your best choice in town.

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