Pork and Beans on a Bun

I had gone to Tortas Las Llardas looking for a truly great torta hamburguesa. I had read about their hamburguesa estilo-D.F., or Mexico City-style hamburger, with bacon and a grilled pineapple slice on top. I liked the unusual burger, which came with a large, juicy hamburger patty. But as it turned out, the burger was served on a bun without the avocado and beans, so I'm not sure it even qualified as a torta. If you know of a great tortaburger, let me know. I'm still on the lookout.

I am thinking of going back to Tortas El Angel and asking for a double meat tortaburger. And if I could convince them to also cook the burger patties a little juicer, we might have a winner. Everything else about El Angel's tortaburger is perfect.

Troy Fields

Remarkable: The "Pepito" with steak, onion and raw jalapeño.

Location Info

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Tortas el Angel

1018 N. Shepherd
Houston, TX 77008

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Heights

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Details

Hours: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

"Pepito" regular: $5

"Maestro" regular: $6

"Tortaburger" gigante: $8

"California" regular: $5

1018 N. Shepherd, 713-862-9222.

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• Tortas Angel
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There's a lot to like about this humble little sandwich shop on North Shepherd. The Pepito and the Maestro were standouts, and I am looking forward to trying the fajita-and-melted cheese sandwich. (I wonder if they would add a fried egg to any of these for a little extra.)

Once you embrace the torta, you will find that various versions of the sandwich can be quite impressive. At five bucks, they are also a great deal on dinner. Yes, tortas are mushy, but so are hamburgers. (Which is why I think a hamburguesa torta is such a great idea.)

The number of new torta shops opening around town suggests that the Mexican sandwich is gaining in popularity — maybe mushy is the next big thing.