Catch it while you can at Hugo's

The literal translation of pan de cazón is "small-shark bread." It's the sort-of national dish of Campeche, where they use blacktip sharks to make it; dogfish or "baby" shark is used in Yucatán. At Hugo's (1602 Westheimer, 713-524-7744), the pan de cazón ($8) consists of cubes of the firm-fleshed dogfish covered with refried black beans, then stuffed inside a stack of blue corn tortillas. A spicy, rust-colored sauce, made with tomatoes and habanero chiles, covers the mound of tortillas and pools at the bottom of the plate, while a ring of marinated onion decorated with watercress tops off the tower of food. Cutting into the dish, try to get a bit of all of the ingredients at once — you'll be well rewarded.