Top

dining

Stories

 

Catch it while you can at Hugo's

The literal translation of pan de cazón is "small-shark bread." It's the sort-of national dish of Campeche, where they use blacktip sharks to make it; dogfish or "baby" shark is used in Yucatán. At Hugo's (1602 Westheimer, 713-524-7744), the pan de cazón ($8) consists of cubes of the firm-fleshed dogfish covered with refried black beans, then stuffed inside a stack of blue corn tortillas. A spicy, rust-colored sauce, made with tomatoes and habanero chiles, covers the mound of tortillas and pools at the bottom of the plate, while a ring of marinated onion decorated with watercress tops off the tower of food. Cutting into the dish, try to get a bit of all of the ingredients at once — you'll be well rewarded.

 
  • Donny Wallace 05/17/2011 3:19:00 AM

    I had the $23 lamb taco at Hugos and it had bone all through it unlike at any truck or taco joint. The meat wasn't as good as $1.00- $1.50 much better tacos off the truck. And yet the retarded gringos rave about this place while the chicks scramble to be seen around the full crowd of retarded white people but no Mexicans in sight. Gee, I wonder why? Maybe the most over-rated restaurant in Houston history. C'mon $23 for an inferior versioin of a Mexican Taco? I get much people at Sunset Taqueitas in front of Planet Funk on Memorial and I can read the papers there and get Mexican Cokes not the watered down cr*p they sell at Hugo's. I will say that the liquor was good and only slightly inflated. But man I want my money back, I was raped. Houston Press and Houstonians please stop encouraging this type of rape so we can get better places to eat in Houston. Stop trying to be seen at this all time rip off. I promise you the crowd is not trendy or cool and that the owner, chief and waiters think you are idiots and suckers for praising the food. My $23 fake lamb garbage was the 2nd biggest rip-off I have encountered at a resturant in my life. The first was the gay icon and super darling Monica Pope passing off 2 bone only quail with no meat and no side dish and nothing else for $27 at the major rip-off Taffia- another one of the most over-rated restaurants in Houston history. Man I was raped- I want my money back!!!

 

Most Popular Stories

  • Mac and More
    This spot started out serving its namesake dish and nothing else. Expanding the menu was a good idea.
  • CFS and a Cigarette
    City Cafe, an old-school diner in South Houston, still turns out a stellar breakfast.
  • Meat Market
    You'll probably be paying more for your rib eyes and Whoppers thanks to the great Texas drought of 2011.
  • More Most Popular>>
Browse Voice Nation
  • Voice Places

    Voice Places

    Discover restaurants, nightlife, travel, shopping...

  • VOICE Daily Deals

    VOICE Daily Deals

    Get 50 to 90% off every day on restaurants, movies, massages...

  • Best Of

    Best Of...

    More than 10,000 of the BEST things to eat, drink, and experience

  • My Voice Nation

    My Voice Nation

    Join the Village Voice community and get exclusive deals and info

  • Happy Hour

    Happy Hour

    Your local Happy Hour guide at your fingertips

or

Log in or Sign up

Social Connect:

Use your favorite account to access My Voice Nation.


Use your My Voice Nation account to log in:





Forgot password?
or

Sign Up or Log in

Social Connect:

Sign up for My Voice Nation with your preferred network.


Sign up for a My Voice Nation account:



Privacy policy