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Brooklyn Gumbo

A chef from New York City is knocking them dead in Piney Point at Jonathan's The Rub.

After a proper application of mustard and mayo, I took a bite. The meat was loose and juicy, and the meat-to-bun ratio excellent. It was a fancy restaurant burger masterpiece. I handed it back to my tablemate, but after she took a few more bites, it fell apart in her hands. She ate the debris with a knife and fork. The burger came with a choice of sides — she went with the delicious but limp hand-cut french fries.

After sampling the burger, I went back to my steak, but the thrill was gone. The filet mignon asada with chipotle sauce cost $32. The burger was $12. And I seriously wished I had ordered the burger. Maybe I need to come back at lunch time.

The little neighborhood restaurant with the charming host seems to be a theme lately. [See "Hollister Hospitality," June 18.] But the main attraction here is Jonathan Levine. He is a down-to-earth guy, a good cook and a gregarious host. He isn't on a mission. He doesn't want to teach anybody anything, he just wants his customers to have a good time. His menu was inspired by ten years of catering and working as a personal chef in the affluent Memorial neighborhood. He buys the very best seafood and high-quality beef and cooks it simply. His prices aren't cheap.

Witty: The scallops and grits.
Troy Fields
Witty: The scallops and grits.

Location Info

Map

Jonathan's The Rub

9061 Gaylord St.
Houston, TX 77024

Category: Restaurant > Eclectic

Region: Outer Loop - NW

Details

Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 2:20 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Dinner hours: 5:30 p.m. until they feel like closing, Mondays through Saturdays.

Burger: $12

Steak asada: $32

Cioppino: $32

Seafood medley: $28

Scallop grits: $28

9061 Gaylord, 713-465-8200.

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None of that sounds very remarkable, and yet eating at Jonathan's The Rub is a delightful experience. Jonathan roams the restaurant and visits every table. He tells jokes on himself and wants to meet your family. And he works his ass off. There just aren't many restaurant owners sweating on the line while cracking wise with the patrons anymore.

Which is probably why, rain or shine, there's always a line at Jonathan's.

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