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Creole Rabbit

The "Tex-La" food at Sabine River Cafe isn't innovative, but it sure is tasty.

Comments (0) By Robb Walsh Wednesday, Jul 1 2009

...continued from page 1

"I am having trouble getting over the Wolfgang Puck Express stigma," he said. Puck's restaurant closed several years ago, so nobody thinks to look at the long-empty space for anything new, despite the fact that it fronts on Westheimer.

Explaining the restaurant's name, Krauthamer pointed out that the Sabine River is the border between Texas and Louisiana. "I am creating a new category I call 'Tex-La,'" he said. "Louisiana food with a Texas twist."

Troy Fields

Favorite entrée: grilled redfish with pecan butter topping.

Location Info

Map

Sabine River Cafe

10001 Westheimer
Houston, TX 77042

Category: Restaurant > Cajun

Region: Memorial

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Details

Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Poor boys: $7-$8

Beignets: $3

Paneed rabbit: $10

Pecan fried chicken: $10

Redfish: $20

10001 Westheimer, 713-334-2353.

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I really like Sabine River Cafe despite the clichéd concept. But I have to wonder: Is Krauthamer clueless, or does he think his customers are?

Brennan's of Houston has published two cookbooks full of recipes for Louisiana food with a Texas twist, one by Carl Walker and one by Randy Evans. And Brennan's of Houston's name for the style, Texas Creole, is a lot better than "Tex-La," which is easily confused with another compound state name, "Texlahoma."

Maybe Krauthamer has never been to Brennan's of Houston (which is still closed after the fire). Maybe he has never had the Tex-Cajun Virgin, the outrageous plate of French fries covered with brown gravy and chile con queso at BB's Cajun Cafe on Montrose. Maybe he has never heard of the Golden Triangle's famous Texas-Cajun-style barbecued crabs. Whatever the case, Louisiana food with a Texas twist has been around for decades.

But don't take my whining too seriously. I suspect that I will be eating at Sabine River Cafe regularly. I am especially looking forward to trying the breakfast menu, which features buttermilk biscuits with gravy and powdered sugar-covered beignets. Hope there's some of that Texas-Louisiana chicory-flavored coffee, too.