Loaves and Fishes

The best taquerías, like Taquería Jesus Maria, serve great Tex-Mex along with the regional Mexican fare.

Yes, that's right, Mexican nationals love Tex-Mex. While fancy "authentic Mexican" restaurants for gabachos insist they don't serve Tex-Mex, truly Mexican taquerías where nobody even speaks English are dishing up fajitas, nachos and cheese enchiladas along with the regional Mexican specialties. So where would you rather eat?

The $4.99 lunch specials at Jesus Maria were tempting, but I wanted to try the enchiladas. So I ordered Number 20 on the "Tejano Plates" section of the menu, an item called "Enchiladas Gringas." The dish consists of three enchiladas stuffed with your choice of chicken, beef or cheese and topped with chile con carne and chile con queso, with rice and beans on the side. I got the beef filling, which turned out to be a rich picadillo of ground beef with onions, roasted carrots and seasonings.

Get the fried mojarra and make some fabulous fish tacos.
Robb Walsh
Get the fried mojarra and make some fabulous fish tacos.

Location Info


Taqueria Jesus Maria

1106 Spencer Highway
South Houston, TX 77587

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Outside Houston


Hours: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 7 a.m. to 4 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. Sundays.

Migas: $3.79

Nachos: $5.49

Enchiladas Gringas: $8.49

Rib steak: $9

Fajitas for two: $10

1106 Spencer Hwy., 713-943-8822.

I once had a similar plate of three enchiladas topped with the cholesterol-heavy combo of chili con carne and chile con queso at the Palmetto Inn on South Padre Island. There it was nicknamed the "heart attack on a plate." Jesus Maria's version of the dish was excellent, if a little on the heavy side. In the interest of heart-healthy dining, I gave up after eating two of the enchiladas and most of the beans.

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