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Shade at Canopy

The dish of Claire Smith's newest restaurant

"Since shade is such an important part of our lives as an element in Houston's weather, and that's what we called our first restaurant, we extended this concept with Canopy, which really means a canopy of oak trees sheltering us from the elements," says Claire Smith of her new Canopy (3939 Montrose, 713-528-6848), which occupies the space where Salud used to be. The decor is stark and functional yet soothing. Photos of oak trees cover some of the walls and almost make you feel as though you were eating outdoors.

Smith and partner Russell Murrell opened The Daily Review in 1994, followed by Shade in 2004. Executive Chef David Luna, a native of Houston, has worked all over the U.S. and picked up a lot of ideas along the way. "We'll be using local ingredients and adding a local style to everything we do," says Luna. "We call it global cuisine, so it will include such things as a BLT, as well as a steak chimichurri and lots of dishes with Asian influences. We have a bakery on-site, which will supply both Canopy and Shade with bread and pastries, and we'll be serving and selling breakfast pastries," adds Luna.

An appetizer of grilled asparagus with speck and a fried egg showcased Luna's international flair, as did the braised Berkshire pork shank with gorgonzola-tomato orzo. The menu, which is small, is still undergoing some changes as the kitchen gets its footing. Paul Galvani

Got the latest info on restaurant openings, closings, special events and gossip? E-mail us at dish@houstonpress.com.

 
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