The andouille and tasso flatbread ($9.50) at Bistro Alex (800 West Sam Houston Pkwy. in the Hotel Sorella, 713-827-3545), owned by the Brennan family, is one of those dishes that you wish would never end. A riff on an ultra-thin-crust pizza, it remains crisp until the very last morsel. The kitchen cuts up the flatbread into four quarters and stacks them with cubes of smoky andouille sausage and tasso (spicy smoked pork), slices of scallions (which add a certain sweetness), and mustard greens (which add a bitterness). Shavings of manchego cheese, melted over the top, add the perfect cheese flavor.