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Ohio Barbecue

The art of smoke, ten years later, at Bobbie Que's Rib Shack.

Although I wrote the Legends of Texas Barbecue Cookbook and count myself among the barbecue purists, I grew up in Pittsburgh. My mother used to make what she called "barbecue sandwiches" by pouring Kraft barbecue sauce over chipped ham and simmering it in a pan, then spooning the mixture onto hamburger buns. If you are thinking, "That's not barbecue," you are wrong. Nobody owns the word "barbecue," and nobody gets to dictate its definition.

Those of us who champion Texas barbecue, Carolina barbecue and Kansas City barbecue have become the cranky elitists in the multibillion-dollar American barbecue business. Southern Pride is the pit of choice in barbecue restaurants now. And according to most of the barbecue books published for backyard barbecuers, hamburgers and hot dogs, fish dishes and even veggies are barbecue too. It doesn't matter if you agree or not — the vast majority of Americans swear by what they read in Steven Raichlen's Barbecue Bible.

I brought a full rack of Bobbie Que's Saint Louis-style ribs and a pound of his jalapeño sausage home and served them for dinner. My friend and fellow food writer Pableaux Johnson stopped by to eat with us that night. I asked him what he thought of the ribs without mentioning where they came from.

The ribs come covered in one of the owner's "signature sauces."
Troy Fields
The ribs come covered in one of the owner's "signature sauces."

Location Info

Map

Bobbie Que's Rib Shack

3602 Scott
Houston, TX 77004

Category: Restaurant > Barbecue

Region: Third Ward

Details

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; 1 to 6 p.m. Sundays.

Rib tips and fries: $5

Rack of ribs: $18.95

Burger: $6.95

Mac and cheese: $2.50

Cole slaw: $1.95

3602 Scott, 713-842-7625.

"There's no smoky flavor. They are falling-off-the-bone tender, but they taste like they were baked," he said as he gnawed on a big rib.

I bought a bottle of Bobbie Que's ­Jalapeño barbecue sauce too. It's really wonderful stuff. I plan to use it on a three-and-a-half-pound rack of pecan-smoked barbecue ribs some time in the near future.

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