When the Avocado Jumbo Crab Tower ($13.95) arrives at your table at Ruggles Grill (903 Westheimer, 713-527-9400), the waiter carefully places the plate in front of you and hovers for a moment to see your reaction to the six-inch-tall architectural masterpiece. It's for you to decide how to attack the dish. Finely cubed tomatoes are mixed with cilantro to form the one-inch base. Lump crabmeat, and a lot of it, tossed in a local citrus reduction, forms the next layer, followed by a layer of cubes of avocado. The whole is topped off with strips of corn, sweet-potato crisps and a drizzle of sweet habanero sauce. The crunchy shoestring chips, smooth avocado, firm tomatoes and soft crab all work together wonderfully.