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True to the 'Trose

Colorful eatery Canopy is becoming a neighborhood fixture.

If you ask me, brunch is all about Eggs Benedict, typically poached eggs on an English muffin with Canadian bacon and hollandaise sauce. I could eat this every Sunday for the rest of my life. The Eggs Benny at Canopy were delish — not very traditional, but really tasty. Two poached eggs sat on a potato pancake with ham and grilled asparagus, and it was all covered with hollandaise.

Hollandaise too often comes out runny or broken up. Not here. It was perfect. I couldn't believe how pleasant this brunch was. All my preconceived notions about eating this meal on Mother's Day were proven wrong. I found myself wondering how incredible it must be on a normal Sunday.

When I visited Canopy at dinnertime, I was looking forward to a nice, quiet meal with a good bottle of wine and some meat. Unfortunately, the dining room was filled with middle-aged women talking loudly and drinking white wine by the glass. It was like The Real Housewives of Montrose. It was Cougar Town.

Get the Green Eggs and Ham with — oh, gawd —the chocolate ­hazelnut tart.
Troy Fields
Get the Green Eggs and Ham with — oh, gawd —the chocolate ­hazelnut tart.

Location Info

Map

Canopy

3939 Montrose
Houston, TX 77006

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Montrose

Details

Lunch hours:11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Brunch hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Dinner hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays and Mondays, 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, and 5 to 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Grilled asparagus and creamy wild mushrooms: $11

Crab remoulade and tomato salad: $15

Canopy Burger: $12

Buttermilk-fried pork loin: $14

Canopy Eggs Benedict: $14

Crab cake and fried green tomatoes: $14

Green Eggs and Ham: $15

Pan roasted duck breast: $27

Sautéed Gulf red snapper: $25

Chocolate hazelnut tart: $8

Canopy

3939 Montrose, 713-528-6848.

For appetizers, we ordered a crab cake and Green Eggs and Ham, which was seared sea scallops with ham grits, jalapeño Tabasco butter and a sunny-side-up quail egg. The Green Eggs and Ham came out picture-perfect, looking like something you'd see on the cover of Saveur magazine. I commented to my dining companion that scallops are one of those ingredients that's easy to mess up. First of all, fresh scallops, sea scallops and diver scallops are the best. As for those little frozen white scallops that come in that chemical bath, don't waste your time. Canopy executed its scallops perfectly. They were seared on the outside and nice and creamy on the inside. Yes!

Everything I had here was so pretty, I wanted to take a picture of it. For an entrée, I was torn between the snapper and the duck breast, so I talked my tablemate into ordering the snapper, arguing that it was possible Gulf seafood wouldn't be available for long.

The flavors of both dishes flowed really well and were sophisticated. The snapper was crispy on top and melt-in-your-mouth on the bottom. Mixed in with the fish were little crispy sheets of fried basil, and the plate was filled with artichokes and greens. As for the roasted duck breast, its skin was golden-brown and crispy, and it lay naked across a bed of fluffy wild rice and dried fruits. It was sexy. And it was such a big breast, I could hardly finish it.

In my three visits to Canopy, I tried every single dessert on the menu. The bread pudding contained house-made croissants. The icebox key lime pie was tasty but old-school. It was like a frozen key lime cheesecake made by Betty Crocker. The coconut cream cannoli was good, but I didn't want to eat the whole thing. The lime granita on the side was extreme. When you put it in your mouth, it was like somebody was punching your tongue with a lime tree. It must have been made with fresh lime juice, lime water, lime zest and lime air. But it did cut the cream coconut well. The raspberry layer cake was excellent; the butter cream in between the chocolate layers was the best part.

But the best dessert was the chocolate hazelnut tart with Nutella sorbet and praline ice cream. Oh my gawd! You get the smooth richness of the chocolate filling with the crunch of the hazelnut crust, then the Nutella sorbet to prepare your palate for the cold caramel of the praline. When I'm on my deathbed, I want this. Last meal? That tart from Canopy. I am going back ASAP to order it again, and I am not even a dessert eater. This thing was no less than amazing.

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