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The Royal Treatment

These super-kind folks have been doing knockout Pakistani and Indian food for more than 16 years.

Rahim also suggests something off the grill. It's kind of an off-menu item — something tells me Royal has a lot of these — and what Rahim refers to as "Indian diner food." It turns out to be grilled goat chops, or Royal Goat Champ (by the way, don't do a Google Images search for "Royal Goat Champ"). We also order karahi chicken and more samosas, this time the beef variety, along with naan. Oh, the naan.

The karahi chicken is no less than fantastic, with lots of garlic and ginger flavors. The goat korma is packed with aromatic spices, all the usual suspects: coriander, cardamom, turmeric and chilies. But the show stopper, the thunder-stealer, the one dish I will always come here for, is the goat chops. Let me tell you something, of all the times I have eaten Indian food, nothing, I mean nothing, even comes close to this. This dish is a meat-eater's wet dream. The huge rib bones stick out of the plate like meat sails, and the red, seared skin of the meat beckons you like a goat siren. I tear into one of these chops and never look back. I'm halfway through one when my table mate says, "Suck the marrow." Without hesitation, I suck the marrow out of the middle of the chop, and it is like butter: milky, creamy warm butter of goat bone. Need I say more?

The super-kind folks at Royal have been doing knockout Pakistani and Indian food for more than 16 years, and they know how to make you feel at home, whether home is Montrose or Punjab. If you're looking for a family meal or just a chicken curry and a lassi (yogurt drink), Rahim Ali and his father Jaffar Ali will take you in, wrap you in naan and keep you warm on cold days or cool you off with gola ganda (Indian snow cones) on hot days.

Spectacular Indian diner food: Royal Goat Champ.
Troy Fields
Spectacular Indian diner food: Royal Goat Champ.

Location Info

Map

Royal Restaurant

11919 Bissonnet
Houston, TX 77099

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Outer Loop - SW

Details

Hours: noon to midnight daily.

Royal grill plate: $11.99

Tawa chicken: $9.99

Karahi goat: $9.99

Vegetable or beef samosas: $3

Royal Goat Champ: $11.99

Goat korma: $8.99

Naan: $1.99

Lassi: $2.99

Royal Restaurant

11919 Bissonnet, 281-530-1100.

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The simplicity and quality of the execution of these dishes, not to mention the Bollywood hip-hop videos playing on the flat-screen, make me want to travel to India. I look up the price of a plane ticket on my phone. It's $1,400 for a 34-hour flight. Royal Restaurant will have to do for now.

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