There's a dish at Brio Tuscan Grille (12808 Queensbury Ln., 713-973-9610) that demands attention, from the moment you see it on the menu until the moment you inhale the last morsel. It's the appetizer called Spicy Shrimp with Eggplant ($11.95). Thin slices of eggplant encrusted with Romano cheese and bread crumbs are fried and cut into pieces. These are topped with Gulf shrimp pan-seared in a rich, velvety, spicy black-pepper cream sauce that has a definite attitude. Forget your manners and go ahead and sop up any of the remaining sauce with Brio's fabulous homemade sourdough bread.