Unless you carefully read the description of Pizza Nonni ($12) on the menu at Bistro Provence (13616 Memorial, 713-827-8008), you might miss the fact that it's topped with snails. Yes, snails — eight large ones, sitting atop a 10-inch crust. This unusual pizza is one of the best ever. The thin crust, flakier than normal, is topped with onion confit that is so sweet, you'd swear they added some sugar. This is covered with goat cheese, then Swiss cheese, which melds perfectly with the snails and makes a gooey — and delicious — mess.