The French love leeks. At Heights West Restaurant (2307 Ella, 713-868-6148), Chef Glen Trumble, who trained all over France, makes a traditional leek terrine with goat cheese ($7.50). He thinly slices the leeks, then presses them into a mold and covers them in aspic to hold everything together. Just before serving, he cuts two thin slices and lays them on a plate, then drizzles an orange-colored sauce made from pureed vegetables on the side. The dish is both very tasty and visually appealing — at first glance, the slices look like green-and-white mosaics from ancient Rome.