One of the specialties of Sicily is arancini, or little oranges. At Union Kitchen (4057 Bellaire, 713-661-0025), J's Arancini ($7) are more the size of mandarins than oranges, but they're great nevertheless. Named for their orange color, these arancini are risotto balls covered in panko, or Japanese breadcrumbs, and deep-fried, with a kalamata olive stuffed with feta at the center. Four come to an order, and they're served with a marinara sauce. When you bite into one, the crispy exterior soon yields to the moist, soft rice filling, with a combination of Greek and Italian flavors that is hard to beat.