You may wonder why anyone would want to make a "cheesecake" without cheese. The answer is simple: It gives those on a nondairy diet the opportunity to indulge. This is the idea behind Snap Kitchen (3600 Kirby, 713-526-5700), a new, healthy, takeout food emporium. The peanut butter "cheesecake" ($3.75) is also gluten-free and lower in sodium than regular cheesecake. It has a wonderful bottom crust made of dates, pecans and coconut, with a layer of smooth peanut butter on top. One bite is enough to convince you that you're not missing out on a thing.