On every table are squeeze bottles of green and red salsa, which go on those tacos as well (although I've been known to put tablespoons full of the green in my charro beans). The green is a creamy jalapeño-based salsa that will sneak up on you; the red is less spicy but deeper in flavor, with a rich current of tamarind running through it. Both make excellent additions to the enchiladas del Julio, another favorite dish.
Simply soaked in a light chile-laced tomato sauce, corn tortillas are wrapped around white meat chicken that's been roasted and stripped from the bone, with a scattering of white queso fresco on top. Roasted potatoes come on the side. It's a beautiful meal, arresting in its simplicity. Not simple, however, are the flavors of that roasted chicken mingling with the bright sauce.
Troy Fields
Authentic: the tacos de trompo.
Location Info
Details
Hours: 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays, 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. Saturdays, 8 a.m. to midnight Sundays.
Caldo Tlalpeño: $3.79
Flautas especiales: $7.49
Enchiladas del Julio: $7.49
Tacos de trompo: $6.49
Taco pirata: $2.39
Gringa: $2.29
Torta: $4.59
Tacos del Julio
8203 Long Point, 832-358-1500
Related Content
More About
I wish the flautas had this same determination of character, this same clean look and feel with surprisingly complex flavors. But the fried little tubes are often far too hard, looking and tasting as if they'd been over-fried in slightly dirty oil. No matter, though, as they're one of the very few underwhelming things on the menu.
Perfect for cleaning the palate after a few bites of the flautas on one visit was the caldo Tlalpeño, a very classic Mexican chicken soup. I order a small bowl of it with nearly every visit.
Unlike a standard caldo de pollo or caldo xochitl, the Tlalpeño calls for the addition of a very important ingredient: chipotle chiles in adobo sauce. At Tacos del Julio, the chiles come in a little plastic cup full of adobo, allowing you to flavor the broth as you see fit, stocky white squares of queso panela bobbing on the top. The vegetables are similarly thick: ripe hunks of carrot, avocado and potato are barely covered by the broth in the bowl. Dosed with copious squirts of lime, it's especially good stuff right now, with colds and flus bouncing around the city.
It's also the perfect antidote for anyone who's grown weary of grease-saturated plates of tamales and enchiladas elsewhere. There's no gooey, cheesy Tex-Mex here at Tacos del Julio, just simple northern Mexican food in a clean and cheerful setting.
katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com