TQLA's dining room certainly looks the part of an upscale, trend-focused Washington Avenue destination, all fiery tones and copper sculptures affixed to the high ceilings. And while certain of the clientele absolutely look — especially on a Saturday night — as if they're heading to Reign or Privilege afterward, the vibe is welcoming and casual.
I've yet to have a waiter who wasn't personable and highly knowledgeable about the menu as well as the tequilas. They're quick and happy to recommend certain margaritas, cocktails or flights, excitedly pointing out the draft system which keeps at least seven tequilas on tap at all times, chilled to 5 degrees Fahrenheit. A flight is the easiest — and cheapest, at just under $14 — way to experience this system, especially if you're seated in the large bar area. I do wish that TQLA would keep less obvious choices on draft — Don Julio, El Jimador and Corzo are all fairly common — as a means of really encouraging patrons to branch out and consider tequila as something more than just a shot taken off someone's bare stomach. But I do appreciate seeing locals like Riazul on draft, just as I'm happy to see brews like Saint Arnold and Southern Star at traditional bars.
Troy Fields
The pumpkin seed-crusted salmon will make your week.
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See a slideshow from TQLA's kitchen.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Wednesdays; 11 a.m. to midnight Thursdays through Saturdays.
Guacamole fresca: $8.95
Calamari La Paz: $9.95
Shredded pork carnitas tacos: $10.25
Ensenada chicken enchiladas: $11.25
Pumpkin seed-crusted salmon: $16.95
Bert's green chile burger: $13.95
Apple crisp: $7.95
TQLA
4601 Washington, 281-501-3237.
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Appetizers are the way to go when sitting in the bar, and the rich guacamole fresca is a favorite. Calamari La Paz has potential — even more so when swiped through the eye-rollingly good ancho chile sauce that comes with it — but the squid are lost under too much batter. Order the light, fresh, unfussy guacamole with its roughly diced squares of avocado and tiny burn from the serrano chiles hidden throughout. It's a wonderful pairing with the twin salsas that come with the paper-thin tortilla chips: one bright green and citrusy, the other dusky and sweeter than expected thanks to the ancho chiles and tamarind within.
And while I have some concerns that TQLA might not be taken as seriously as it should because of its name, and because of its location, I'm somewhat selfishly all right with this: It means I won't have to fight a crowd at night when I'm craving a stellar bowl of guacamole and thoughtful, high-quality, skillfully executed Southwestern food.
katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com