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Good Seed

A food truck in the Third Ward serves vegan fare that's never bland or boring.

The $20 eat-till-you're-stuffed brunch also comes with a kombucha mimosa, which combines the carbonated, fermented tea with fresh-squeezed orange juice. I ordered a latte as well, which comes with your choice of almond, rice or coconut milk. The smiling young man behind the register pleaded with me to try the coconut milk — it's his favorite, he said — and I acquiesced, much to my eventual satisfaction. As those who cook with it know, coconut milk provides that rich, creamy feel and flavor of heavy cream without the lactose.

This Saturday vegan brunch — much like the Sunday brunch at Radical Eats — feels more like a brunch among family and friends than strangers, and it's difficult to walk out of Eat Gallery without wanting to return the week after. Or without wanting to line up again at Green Seed Vegan when it reopens the following Tuesday.
_____________________

Sure enough, the next Tuesday, there I was again. I'd brought along a coworker this time, and we gave the menu a long perusal before finally ordering; when the food's as good as it is at Green Seed Vegan, it's difficult to choose just one thing.

Dirty Burque: Fast food without the guilt.
Troy Fields
Dirty Burque: Fast food without the guilt.

Location Info

Map

Green Seed Vegan

2305 Wheeler
Houston, TX 77004

Category: Restaurant > Health

Region: Third Ward

Details

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesdays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays.
Tosh: $6
Illy Cheesesteak: $6
Dirty Burque: $7
Dill fries: $2
Kale salad: $2
Strawberry-banana juice: $4
Saturday brunch: $20


READ MORE
SLIDESHOW: You'll Want to Go Vegan at Green Seed
BLOG POST: Green Seed Vegan and The Eat Gallery: A Perfect Pair


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I settled on a Tosh, a panini with maple-jerk-flavored tempeh (a non-soy tempeh, it should be noted, made by Merrell herself), caramelized plantains, spinach and jerk-seasoned aioli. The panini bread here is thin and grilled inside and out, giving a nice little crunch to the sandwich, and the sweetness of the plantains was matched pound-for-pound by the garlic, allspice and all-around heat of the jerk seasoning. (If you're determined to make your meal gluten-free as well, you can also get any of the paninis or burgers in a collard wrap.)

My coworker went for the Illy Cheesesteak in a long, fluffy white baguette, spilling over with fat slices of grilled portobello mushrooms, caramelized onions and vegan cheese. It tasted as though the portobello and onions had been grilled together, the soft smoke of the grill infusing the onions and the sweetness of the caramelized onions taking its turn with the mushrooms. I've become a fan of Daiya, the vegan cheese, ever since tasting it on a slice at Zpizza — it's so rich and so eager to melt atop hot foods, it's tough to tell it's vegan.

We each got a kale salad, and I grabbed a side of fries. While I wasn't impressed with the fries — the underwhelming dill seasoning wasn't up to Green Seed's typical flavor standards — I ate the kale salad with the kind of wild abandon I had for my very first, authentically prepared Caesar salad. Crispy roughage was verdant and perky under a tangy, creamy, salty dressing that removed any vestiges of the kale's bitterness.

We drove away that day with fresh juices for dessert, bolstering us against the gloomy mid-afternoon rain and brightening our spirits. Green Seed Vegan has a way of doing that, whether it's with a satisfying burger or a genuine smile from Merrell herself. It's tough to feel bad after eating here, and that's not something you can say about many places. I can only imagine what good Merrell and Perry will do once they launch their long-term dream of a full-scale vegan restaurant. For now, though, I'm happy just to have the couple and their tiny truck on Wheeler.

katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com

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17 comments
Ibrahim Sargin
Ibrahim Sargin

The environmental benefits of eating a vegan meal sure get minimized if people drive all the way from Galveston to Houston and back to eat it.

H_e_x
H_e_x

Yes, I'm sure so many people are driving that far just to go to the truck.

Ibrahim Sargin
Ibrahim Sargin

Anyway, that shouldn't detract from the place, the food looks awesome. :)

H_e_x
H_e_x

Good on them for providing a tasty, healthy choice in the Third Ward.

PM
PM

The haters here are lame. Certainly, there is room in a city as diverse as Houston for a wide variety of food purveyors. Vegan is just another option. These people don't have an agenda other than trying to sell good food of the variety they have chosen and hope people purchase it. If you prefer not to eat it, then choose to eat somewhere else.

As a food writer in this large city mentioned above, I'm sure Ms. Shilcutt views her job as an opportunity to present a wide variety of options to the readership. Obviously, as she pointed out, the vegan options here are not overrepresented based on the total amounts of posts on this blog.

If it bothers you that a vegan restaurant is covered in a review, I truly hope you can deal with some of the less trivial injustices in a more even-keeled and productive manner.

Jason Nodler
Jason Nodler

I guess the negative comments were deleted or something. Good, I guess.

I was very pleased to read about this new vegan option and am eager to try it out.

More, I was pleased to see a Press food writer cover vegan cuisine in a less than demeaning way. For so many years, in his coverage of anything at all to do with vegetarian or vegan eating, Robb Walsh proved there is indeed such a thing as "bad press." I'm glad he's gone and gladder to see the place he left has been filled by someone who is not so insulting to those who choose not to eat animals.

Anse
Anse

Ms. Shilcutt does not deserve the criticism. She's covering the breadth and depth of our dining scene, and for that she ought to be applauded, not criticised.

Perhaps this is not the best time to engage in an honest and open debate about the merits and legitimate grievances of the omnivore vs. vegan lifestyles. But maybe we can dedicate a column to such a discussion at some point in the future? Because the argument that we can all do our own thing doesn't always satisfy.

Corey
Corey

Good review sounds pretty good to this leyman. But aren't you getting a little heavy handed with the recent Vegan kick, I mean some of us still like to eat meat; I'd say a healthy majority, and these types of places just reek of neurotic, uptight, and at the really bad end of the spectrum pretentious. I laugh at people and their weirdness about things not casting a shadow, but then I guess it's trendy to be neurotic and enjoy absolutely nothing..

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

By "heavy-handed," do you mean the one week in September that I cooked vegan at home and wrote a blog post about it? Or the one other vegan restaurant I've reviewed this year, Radical Eats? Just want to make sure...

Once again, I don't understand the immediate jump from "vegan" to "pretentious." Have you even met these people? I guess vegans get a bad rap thanks to ridiculous organizations like PETA, but most vegans I know are just normal people.

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard

Really? Vegans are, by definition, an odd lot. They refuse milk or butter. That is just weird no matter how you look at it. Eggs? Really? I've corrected more than one who thought they were chicken abortions. As I said earlier, if you want vegan options on a menu, than by all means put it on there. But to have an entire menu based on a ridiculous concept is simply stupid. Potato chips are vegan also. Doesn't mean they're healthy.

Corey
Corey

One would think a publication with the reach of the HP would review restaurants likely to be enjoyed by most people, thus increasing readership versus pandering to a very small segment and really of little or no interest to the general public, and in lieu of the holiday it's also a poor choice of review on a day 99% of us are eating a bird. Happy tofurkey day, at least I maintain the ability to be civil and back up my points with something called a fact..

Wyatt
Wyatt

Interesting niche places like this are a big part of what makes a culinary scene interesting. Thank god not everyone thinks like you do. Shit would get boring quick.

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard

Vegetarian is one thing, but vegan is on an entirely different level, in which it tends to bring in people who insist upon themselves. Gluten-free is this decades "lactose-free" and once again, shows that these ailments would never exist in 3rd world countries. It will be interesting to see what this decades new "thing" will be.

I'm fine with restaurants having vegetarian and even "vegan" options (I have sweet potato vegan gluten free chips at my desk right now), but when everything you serve is this, it seems more like you have an agenda, and I'm not big on restaurants trying to make a statement. Of course, God forbid one of these places offer cheese, the entire group they are pandering to would shun it instantly.

I know I will be in the minority on this, and I don't care. Sometimes you have to call a duck a duck.

Wyatt
Wyatt

"Of course, God forbid one of these places offer cheese, the entire group they are pandering to would shun it instantly."

The same way halal places would be shunned if they served pork.

The vegan thing is something these people feel strongly about. Why should they sell products they don't agree with? I can see finding it annoying if they were preachy about it, but it doesn't seem like they are at all.

I'm a meat-eater, and this place seems interesting.

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

I've noticed a propensity for vegan food to offend some people, and I can't figure out why. These folks are just making good food -- the kind of food they eat and that others do, too.

I can't speak for them, but I think the only real agenda at work here is encouraging people to incorporate more vegetables and fruits into their [heavily starch- and sugar-based] diets in fun, different, delicious ways. And I'm totally on board with that. Meat is awesome. Cheese is awesome. And vegetables are too!

Corey
Corey

To each their own..

 
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