Camillo is in charge of the two-page wine list, something the young server clearly takes immense pride in. It's not an inexpensive list — most bottles are in the $45 to $60 range, with some selections around $200 — but it's well-edited and offers some unusual selections. Camillo is quick to notice and remember repeat customers, and just as quick to remember their names and previous wine orders. It's astounding, and rarely encountered in younger servers these days. He's also quick to point out new additions he thinks his regulars would like.
"Would you like a bottle of the Primitivo again?" he asked me on only my second visit to the restaurant. The $48 bottle had been smooth and rich, but we were in the mood for something different. He suggested a less expensive bottle of Ninquén Antu Syrah at $44 that I appreciated just as much — until I got home later and saw that it had been marked up by $27. Profit margins; what are you going to do?
Troy Fields
Arturo Boada's signature dish, camarones henesy en hamaca, works on every level.
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And on some nights, that wine — marked up or not — is one of the few bright spots during dinner. On my last visit, during that packed Saturday night, the appetizer special of prosciutto over marinara-topped bread was blander than I'd imagined it would be (my table wanted to order it); grilled sashimi-grade tuna was equally underseasoned despite its topping of lemon truffle oil-laced arugula, giving me still more reason to wish restaurants would discontinue truffle oil's use entirely; and rigatoni with grilled chicken, sweet peas and a creamy pink sauce was inoffensive but unremarkable — which wouldn't otherwise be a sin except for its nearly $22 price tag.
The entire dinner was a lesson to stick to the tapas side of the menu, to the dishes which bear Boada's fiery mark just as his restaurant does. Stick with the littleneck clams that are sautéed in a ginger-garlic broth and topped with tomatoes and basil; stick with the tuna tartare, a typical dish that's livened up with cool cucumber and fennel in a ginger-soy vinaigrette.
And stick with those lovely, floury, thin-crust pizzas that seem to float out of the brick oven. We have too few of those in town, and the ones we do should be celebrated.
katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com