Out of the entire menu so far, it's the vegetable achat that I've become most attached to. Dusted with peanuts and sesame seeds, the Malaysian-style pickled vegetables are crisp, cool and effortlessly bright with bursts of cider vinegar and turmeric, lemongrass and ginger. The carrots, cabbage and long beans in the mix still retain their own inherent vegetal sweetness, and never verge on too pickled, too tart, as I've seen in many high-end restaurants that are attempting to pickle their own vegetables these days. The beguilingly cool achat is a must with every order, the perfect accompaniment to a hot meal or simply a hot day in Houston.
When I reviewed the original Banana Leaf in the summer of 2009, I asked why there wasn't more Malaysian food in Houston. The food — like that achat — is ideally suited to both our warm climate and our pan-Asian palates. With the opening of this second location in Chinatown and the steady crowds packing into both, it looks as though Malaysian food might finally be on the rise here. In fact, just last week I spotted a brand-new banner in the Dun Huang shopping center for another new Malaysian restaurant — directly across the parking lot from Banana Leaf.
Troy Fields
Pattaya-style soft crabs are garnished with mango, bell peppers, onions, cilantro and a barely sweet sauce tempered with a kick of red pepper.
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katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com