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Fans of traditional foie gras will find something even more exciting in McGraw's treatment of the lobes: She's poaching them in brandy right now, then serving the tender, dense liver with an apricot puree and a sort of grown-up Jell-O made with Lillet Blanc, which is a blend of white wine and citrus liqueur. Both serve to cut the fattiness of the foie gras without sacrificing any of the rich flavor.
Even veal sweetbreads — which can be terrifically tender but otherwise bland on their own — are given an interesting spin on McGraw's new specials menu, coated in an herb batter and fried up before being served on a bed of horseradish cream between jagged leaves of peppery mizuna and crispy, dehydrated apple slices.
It's hard to believe sometimes that McGraw only graduated from the Art Institute three short years ago and that it wasn't long ago that she was a cheesemonger with the Houston Dairymaids. Running the kitchen like a professional at Brasserie 19, she seems made for the role — one which she's taken on with graceful aplomb. The surprisingly deft way in which she's done so only makes it all the more satisfying and all the more exciting to watch her trajectory in the future. Katharine Shilcutt
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