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Rouxpour: Gumbo and Bros

Despite rowdy crowds and inconsistent cooking, Cajun joint shows real promise.

The same could be said of the muffaletta I enjoyed on that visit: There is a solid structure there, with excellent slices of Genoa salami and Capicola ham under a nicely melted layer of provolone, but — as with the po-boys — the bread is all wrong. Where is the traditional Sicilian sesame bread? Other restaurants in town have the bread right, so I'm sure The Rouxpour can do the same. They'll also want to put quite a bit more of that olive salad on the muffaletta; you could barely taste the thin layer that was spread on top.

The boudin, however, will have to be completely reworked — or at least imported from Louisiana. The Rouxpour's version is far too heavy on the rice and on black pepper; both entirely dominate the classic liver sausage. But for all of its flaws, one of the things The Rouxpour does very right is making most of its dishes in-house.
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Source out that boudin and get some better bread, and then I think you'd find the beginnings of a much better restaurant. I want to like The Rouxpour. It has good bones. It has a chef with a lot of promise, a beautiful patio, a lovely interior (although it can be a bit fussy, something I find ironic given the very masculine crowds that dominate the bar and patio) and two of the better desserts I've found in a while.

The Louisiana-style gumbo has a dark, thick roux.
Troy Fields
The Louisiana-style gumbo has a dark, thick roux.

Location Info

Map

The Rouxpour

2298 Texas Drive
Sugar Land, TX 77479

Category: Restaurant > Cajun

Region: Outside Houston

Details

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Wednesdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Thursdays through Saturdays
Boudin: $7
Bowl of gumbo: $11
Roast beef po-boy: $12
Crawfish étouffée: $14
Chargrilled oysters: $17
Muffaletta: $18

READ MORE
SLIDESHOW: Gumbo and Bros: The Rouxpour in Sugar Land
BLOG POST: Does Over-Serving at Restaurants Go Under-Investigated?

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With so few restaurants focusing on their pastry programs these days, it's increasingly rare to find desserts that aren't bought from Sysco or Costco, let alone noteworthy desserts. At The Rouxpour, you'll want to save room for the housemade cheesecake and white chocolate bread pudding. The former is made with soft mascarpone cheese, which leaves the typically dense dessert with a fluffy texture and refreshingly tangy flavor. The latter features a surprisingly excellent white chocolate sauce (I normally dislike white chocolate with a fervor) that tops a soft, spongy bread pudding packed with the flavor of freshly grated nutmeg and sweet currents of butterscotch.

I would love to see this same attention to detail applied to things like the crawfish étouffée, which features a beautiful blond roux studded with tiny, tough crawfish, or the bisque, which could be set on the right path with just a flick of sherry into that broth.

I'd also love to see more support for the staff, who can seem overwhelmed by the floods of people that crush the patio on weekend nights — something Ward attributed to the nicer weather we've been having lately, and promised to rectify. On that first visit, our waitress was clearly as upset by the two drunk customers as we were, but she wasn't empowered to do anything about it. And on a second visit, our waiter — likely in the weeds — wasn't able to reach our table for at least 15 minutes after we were seated. We rarely saw him that Monday night, and our food runner took care of nearly everything, even bringing us silverware.

Meanwhile, the patio was once again getting rowdy as Monday Night Football kicked into high gear. I watched as some of the bros inside began that pattern of stumbling drunkenly between the inside bar and the patio, one of them balling up trash in his hands and tossing it through the open windows onto the patio, where it landed next to a table of customers.

The customers, a Middle Eastern family, didn't seem to notice the trash as they were attempting to wrangle an explanation of what gumbo is from their harried waitress. "Um, it's like a soup," she attempted. "With a roux. And sausage and sometimes chicken. It's spicy."

The gumbo at The Rouxpour deserves a far better introduction than that.

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11 comments
mr.ed
mr.ed

Shitty service,overpriced food,obnoxious patrons..ahh ..count me out.

Stuart48
Stuart48

The food sounds like it might get there but the trashy behavior by what sounds like LA oil field salesmen from LSU would be a huge turn-off. An establishment makes a ton of money off of those types and the bartenders tend to over serve them because they claim to know and be friends with the owner, "what's his name." That's a lot of high profit business that a struggling place needs and the owner is caught between a rock and a hard place. These types want to be seen and heard in public because they think that they are cute and want to show off (like class clowns) so putting them in an out-of-the-way space only works for a little while. They are harmless but when they over-step the class-clown identity and turn into the playground bully, the atmosphere becomes uninviting and makes you want to leave. 

longjohn
longjohn

Been there.  Good, not great.  Haven't returned. Not a fan of crowded loud drunk frat boy hang outs.  I like Ragin Cajun way better, namely because the restaurant and the bar are in separate rooms.  Food is better too.

HTownChowDown
HTownChowDown

Thanks for the warning.  I'd been wondering about this place.

WineLush
WineLush

Sounds like they need to figure out if they want to be a restaurant or a men behaving badly bar.  You can't be both.

Brazos
Brazos

My wife and I sat at the bar one night and we must have been wearing our invisiblalty cloaks because we had a hard time getting our bartender to server us.  Granted we weren't acting like the other "bros" so she ignored us I guess.  Empty glasses are normal sitting on a bar right?  

The gumbo is good but you're spot on about the bread.  When you buy a sandwich the bread is a deal breaker.  

We will go back for the raw gulf oysters once the water temp drops (screw that month's with r junk"). The raw oysters have always been great - sweet and salty - and its cheaper then driving to Gilhooley's.

I'm surprised to hear the shrimp was frozen though.  You should ask Lincoln about that one.

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard topcommenter

The place definitely has hit & miss dishes, but I will vouch for the soft shell crab and the chargrilled oysters.  Those oysters are the best I've found within the Beltway and heads and tails better than the ones at Wild Cajun.

Sihaya
Sihaya

"It has a chef with a lot of promise, a beautiful patio, a lovely interior (although it can be a bit fussy, something I find ironic given the very masculine crowds that dominate the bar and patio) ..." That's actually pretty typical Louisiana. Same interior taste and same cooking skills across the genders.

gossamersixteen
gossamersixteen topcommenter

Yikes, seems awfully over priced for mediocre food -- $18 muffaletta you can count me out..

nhallfreelance
nhallfreelance

@EatingOurWords check the hed in the online version.

tinyunicorn
tinyunicorn

@nhallfreelance aww but it made me giggle!

 
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