Doshi House Does It All

Third Ward coffeehouse is an art space, community meetingspot and vegetarian cafe in one.

The first — and my favorite — is a sandwich after Deepak Doshi's own heart. The Mumbai Streets panini takes all the garam masala-laced innards of a potato samosa and spreads them out between two slices of hearty wheat bread. The potato filling is perked up with crunchy cucumber slices and sweet tamarind chutney, then made spicy — and even crunchier — with the addition of some pickled jalapeños in a very Texan take on an already twisted sandwich.

The second panini, the Tuscan Red, seems boring at first: That tired old trope of goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes grew stale in the 1990s. But despite my misgivings, it was as delicious as the Mumbai Streets and altogether different.

The Mumbai Streets panini features potato samosa stuffing, cucumber, tamarind chutney and  jalapeños.
Troy Fields
The Mumbai Streets panini features potato samosa stuffing, cucumber, tamarind chutney and jalapeños.

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Doshi House Cafe

3419 Dowling St.
Houston, TX 77004

Category: Coffeehouses

Region: Third Ward

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Details

Hours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays.
Daily soup: $3
Fresh juice: $3.85
House salad: $4.35
Frappe: $4.50
Mumbai Streets panini: $6.95
Evening Meal: $6.95

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SLIDESHOW: Doshi House Does It All in the Third Ward
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Where the Mumbai Streets spills over with samosa filling and grilled onions, the Tuscan Red holds together neatly and compactly, its layers almost resembling the familiar goat cheese, pesto and sun-dried tomato terrine (last seen at every single party my mother throws, ever). But the addition of those same caramelized onions found in the Mumbai Streets as well as roasted red peppers and melty mozzarella cheese give it the necessary oomph to be enjoyable instead of forgettable.

Each panini comes with its own odd little side of banana chips and spinach leaves. I wasn't sure what to do with these at first, then decided on adding some extra vitamins to my paninis by sticking the spinach between the grilled bread. It worked splendidly, leaving the banana chips as just enough dessert for this sweet-tooth-lacking girl to be quite happy.

While Doshi House clearly hasn't set out to be a full-scale restaurant, the homemade meals it serves are good enough for it to be considered one of the best new restaurants the Third Ward has seen in years. Art space, coffeehouse, community meeting spot or cafe — whatever it is to you, Doshi House is nothing if not welcome.

katharine.shilcutt@houstonpress.com

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