Let's Get Greasy

The 10 best fried chicken joints in Houston.

1. Barbecue Inn

Food & Wine called it some of the best fried chicken in America, and Walsh placed the stuff at No. 5 on his own 100 Favorite Dishes. We've even given Barbecue Inn plenty of awards of our own over the years: Best Comfort Food in 2009, Best Fried Chicken in 2007 and Best Vintage Fried Chicken in 2005. (I'm guessing that "vintage" fried chicken would exclude modern concoctions like the Captain Crunch-battered chicken at Zelko Bistro.)

The chicken has received praise even from John T. Edge, the paragon of Southern food writers and founder of the Southern Foodways Alliance. And that praise was for something fried chicken isn't often associated with — an attribute that makes Barbecue Inn's chicken all the more crave-able.

Kimchi cheese fries at Kobecue.
Katharine Shilcutt
Kimchi cheese fries at Kobecue.

"Of course, all fried chicken comes with grease. The question is how much," Edge told Walsh. "The chicken at Barbecue Inn is pretty damn ­greaseless."

Wine Time

But also why they rock.

By Jeremy Parzen

"Bartender, bartender! My wine smells like farts!"

No, this wasn't a George Carlin routine. It was me (and my not-so-inner wine nerd) as I sat at a bar at one of Houston's most swank joints, waiting to be seated for dinner. Honestly, I wasn't surprised that my wine smelled like a fart: It came from a bottle sealed with a screw cap.

Wines contained in bottles with screw-cap closures, when first opened, often smell like "rotten eggs, garlic, struck flint, cabbage, rubber, and burnt rubber," to borrow some descriptors from Master of Wine (and my favorite wine writer) Jancis Robinson. I can't imagine that she would ever use the word fart to describe a wine. She is British, after all. But you get the smell...ahem...idea.

Although the technicians of wine can't entirely agree on why this happens, it's generally believed that the phenomenon is due to reduction — in other words, the absence of oxygen in winemaking. (As Jancis points out in her excellent Oxford Companion to Wine, the term is "convenient, but rather inaccurate"; nonetheless, it has become part of the contemporary wine parlance.)

"Reduction is kind of like the male libido," winemaker Randall Grahm once told me. "It's not pretty," said the wine industry icon, owner and founder of Bonny Doon (Santa Cruz, California), "but it lets us know that everything's working correctly."

Grahm famously pronounced the cork "dead" in 2002 when he decided to abandon the traditional closure in favor of screw caps. At the time, the move was considered controversial and even untenable.

Even just five years ago, as Eric Asimov noted in The New York Times, screw caps and "screw cap taint" (a.k.a. reduction) posed a number of challenges for winemakers.

"Screw caps versus corks?" he punned. "It's all in the air."

Today screw caps are commonplace, especially when it comes to fresh white wines intended to be consumed in their youth, like the Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio that my bartender served me by the glass the other night.

The good news is that the "off" aromas caused by reduction in screw-cap bottles will generally "blow off" with just a few minutes of aeration. While the Felluga initially reminded me of my nearly 12-month-old daughter's early-morning toots, the funk quickly gave way to the fresh white fruit notes on the nose of this excellent, value-driven expression of Pinot Grigio from Friuli (one of my favorites for the price-quality ratio).

The even better news is that the use of screw caps is helping the over-cropped cork trade. We still need naturally produced corks for long-term-aging wines: The bark of the cork tree still provides winemakers and bottlers with the ideal organically porous seal for wines that require gentle oxygenation over long periods of time.

Screw caps also allow winemakers to use less sulfur during bottling and help them to preserve freshness and brilliance in the wine's fruit flavors. The best news is that screw caps, now more common than ever, eliminate the cork taint and oxidation problems found in up to one in eight bottles of cork-sealed wine.

They also make the bottles a lot easier to open, a feature that really comes in handy when you're entertaining at home or when you're a restaurant professional who finds her/himself "in the weeds" behind a bar and needs to open a bottle of wine swiftly and seamlessly.

Top 10

The Top 10 restaurants in Greenway Plaza.

By Katharine Shilcutt

Although some Greenway Plaza office workers frequently bemoan the lack of good dining options in the area, I cheerfully disagree with them. Between hosting one of the absolute all-time best restaurants in town (our No. 1 pick, naturally) and some excellent, inexpensive lunch and dinner options, Greenway Plaza offers more than meets the eye.

While it's a bit difficult to define Greenway Plaza — the area around the master-planned mixed-use development created by Kenneth Schnitzer in the 1970s — the Greenway Plaza neighborhood can loosely be defined as such: south of West Alabama, west of Buffalo Speedway, north of Highway 59 and east of Loop 610.

Honorable Mention: Greenway Coffee & Tea

Although it's not a restaurant, we'd be remiss not to mention the little office coffee shop that spurred Houston's current love affair with serious coffee programs. Not only do owners David Buehrer and Ecky Prabanto roast their own beans and help other restaurants/coffee shops get their own coffee programs in place, the pair is also opening a new shop in Montrose this month: the hugely anticipated Blacksmith.

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