Here, Eat This

A beginner's guide to Indian cuisine.

2. Captain Benny's

Captain Benny's has its own fleet of shrimping vessels and other fishing boats, which is the best way to ensure the seafood a restaurant is receiving is fresh, local and un-messed-around-with. This also means the seafood is far cheaper than at restaurants that deal with middlemen. The little boat-shaped Captain Benny's restaurants are a reliable source of beautiful Gulf ­oysters (in season) as well as any other Gulf seafood you can think of.

1. Resie's Chicken and Waffles

The thali — India's version of a sampler platter — is a great way to try several items at once, as with the Yogi thali seen here from Pondicheri.
Katharine Shilcutt
The thali — India's version of a sampler platter — is a great way to try several items at once, as with the Yogi thali seen here from Pondicheri.
Bánh cuon at Banh Cuon Hoa.
Robb Walsh
Bánh cuon at Banh Cuon Hoa.

Guess what? You don't need to stand in line at the breakfast klub for excellent chicken and waffles. Instead you can head to Resie's, where Resie herself uses her grandmothers' recipes for fried chicken and golden waffles to great acclaim. You can even get them all day long, but you'll want to explore the other sections of Resie's menu: Baked mac 'n' cheese and fried okra don't pair well with waffles, but they're great on the Fat Mac Combo with four Southern-style chicken wings.

Restaurant News

Openings and Closings
Coltivare tries to cultivate community support.

Katharine Shilcutt

The wait is over: Goro & Gun — the hotly awaited downtown ramen shop at 306Main — officially opened for business last Friday at 4 p.m. Goro & Gun is only serving dinner for now, but lunch looks to be in its future.

Saint Arnold Brewery also started serving its new lunch program last week, with last Friday as its third day in operation. "Getting hungry for today's @SaintArnold lunch," wrote founder Brock Wagner on Twitter last week. "Come eat the noble swine cooked with root beer. Claim you only drank root beer too." Chef Ryan Savoie will be serving a new three-course prix-fixe menu every weekday from 11 a.m. to 1:15 p.m.

A reader wrote in last week worried that Cafe Rita — the much loved Armenian-Lebanese mom-and-pop restaurant on Dairy Ashford — had closed. Don't worry, foul fans: Cafe Rita has simply moved. Its new address is 2352 Dairy Ashford, which westsiders will know as the old Steak It Easy spot.

Now for the sad news: Houston is losing a legend. Marfreless is closing after 40 years of being known as the city's pre-eminent makeout bar and one of its hidden treasures. (See "Last Kiss" in Music, page 39.) The bar behind the blue door in the River Oaks Shopping Center never had a sign, but its fans always found their way.

"Marfreless's owners have been trying to do whatever they could to keep the bar operational, but other entities involved weren't budging in regards to the rising cost of doing business, making it impossible to keep the business at this location," the bar stated on its Web site. "To save this distinguished community establishment, Marfreless is currently looking at other locations."

Meanwhile, Montrose juice bar Roots Juice closed after less than a year in business. Whitney Radley reports in CultureMap that "while the details following former general manager Becki O'Brien's late-February departure are unclear, we're happy to report that the juices are still on the menu and back to normal — except that they're now on the menu next door at Roots Bistro."

In other noteworthy closures, Les Givral Kahve on Market Square has served its last banh mi. Owner Qui Ly was tight-lipped as to why the shop was closing — especially in the wake of all the new openings around a reinvigorated Market Square — but told the Houston Chronicle's Syd Kearney that there "is a slight chance that [Les Givral] will come back with [its] BanhMieria concept."

Lastly, two Houston locations of nationwide chain Seasons 52 Fresh Grill are scheduled to open soon. One at 4410 Westheimer, which is the location of a silly-sounding development called High Street (this isn't England; we don't have High Streets in our towns or cities) and one in Memorial at CityCentre. At least Seasons 52 Fresh Grill's incredibly silly name matches its silly new spot on Westheimer.

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