Email Author Paul Galvani

2002 Stories by Paul Galvani

• Construction Ahead

  published December 26, 2002

  The Nouvelle Po Boy ($12.45) at Angelika Cafe & Bar (501 Texas, 713-225-1609) does not come with assembly instructions. It would be helpful... More >>

• Quintessential Soul

  published December 19, 2002

  Nothing says soul food like oxtail stew. At Blue Mountain Cafe (8245 West Bellfort, 713-988-4925), it's prepared with a Jamaican flair and... More >>

• Texas Chick

  published December 12, 2002

  The only problem with chicken-fried chicken (or chicken-fried steak, for that matter) is that you can't eat it with your hands -- not unless you... More >>

• Pyrotechnically Challenged

  published December 5, 2002

  The fire cracker salmon rolls ($8.95) at The Cheesecake Factory (5015 Westheimer, 713-840-0600) may not sparkle or light up. They do,... More >>

• A Slice of Chocolate, Please

  published November 28, 2002

  Pizza is the last thing you'd expect to find at The Chocolate Bar (1835 West Alabama, 713-520-8599), a store dedicated to those with a... More >>

• Sepia Tone

  published November 7, 2002

  The Latin name for cuttlefish is sepia; the color is named for the ink it uses to warn off predators. A cousin to squid and octopus, only... More >>

• Master Baker

  published October 31, 2002

  If you consider the French to be the best bakers on the planet, then you probably also believe the humble croissant to be the quintessential... More >>

• Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy

  published October 10, 2002

  "Burger and fries" and "healthy" don't usually go together -- unless, of course, you're talking about the burgers and fries ($5.50 to $6.50) at... More >>

• The Squeaky Wheel

  published September 26, 2002

  The menu at The Black Labrador (4100 Montrose, 713-529-1199) has a quaint description of the British comfort food known as bubble and... More >>

• Fast Snails

  published September 5, 2002

  One of the most popular appetizers at Crostini (2411 S. Shepherd, 713-524-8558) is the lumache (snails) with grilled polenta... More >>

• Tuna Melt

  published August 29, 2002

  At The Fish (309 Gray, 713-526-5294), the presentation of each dish is as dramatic as the restaurant's decor. The spicy tuna rice salad... More >>

• Blazing Burger

  published August 15, 2002

  The first bite of the Five Alarm Burger ($7.29) at Red Robin Gourmet Burgers & Spirits (7620 Katy Freeway, 713-476-9096) gave little... More >>

• Sounds Fishy

  published August 8, 2002

  They belong in a Caesar salad, on top of a traditional pizza, in bagna cauda (the delicious hot vegetable dip) or in a puttanesca pasta... More >>

• Lost and Found

  published August 1, 2002

  It's not easy to find The Lost River Grille (7620 Katy Freeway, 713-680-2800), since it seems to be connected to Spellbinder's Variety... More >>

• Light Blue Special

  published July 25, 2002

  The Rainbow Lodge (1 Birdsall, 713-861-8666) is blessed with spectacular views overlooking Buffalo Bayou -- and a spectacular Texas blue... More >>

• Doesn't Taste Like Chicken

  published July 11, 2002

  The menu at Tila's Restaurante and Bar (1111 South Shepherd, 713-522-7654) simply calls this entrée Chicken Endive ($12.95). But... More >>

• Focacciaboutit

  published July 4, 2002

  The focaccia sandwiches at Dolce & Freddo (5515 Kirby, 713-521-3260; 7595 San Felipe, 713-789-0219) are unexpected because they are neither... More >>

• Chip Off the Old Block

  published June 27, 2002

  When it comes to food, there are three things any self-respecting Englishman will search for no matter where in the world he finds himself: a good... More >>

• Allium Breath

  published June 6, 2002

  Onions are simple vegetables, but in the hands of Scott Tycer, the owner-chef of Aries (4315 Montrose, 713-526-4404), they are transformed... More >>

• Not Just Soup

  published May 23, 2002

  Barry Cohen is a good Jewish guy. You might wonder, then, what he's doing in a church. A banker by profession, Cohen is the brains behind an idea... More >>

• Da Marco

  published May 23, 2002

  Lingua franca: There's an appetizer on the menu at Da Marco that I'm willing to bet is not available at any other restaurant in... More >>

• Truth in Advertising

  published May 2, 2002

  I have long been a proponent of honesty in advertising, but when I saw Road Kill Hog Meat on the menu at Daniel Wong's Kitchen (4566... More >>

• Fruity-Patootie

  published April 25, 2002

  Since 1889, when the classic Pizza Margherita, named in honor of the queen of Italy, was created at the Pizzeria di Pietro in Naples, people have... More >>

• The Old Switcheroo

  published April 18, 2002

  Almost nine years ago, Givral's Sandwich Shop at 2704 Milam was one of the first Vietnamese sandwich eateries to open in what was to become... More >>

• The Offering

  published April 11, 2002

  The mixed grill (regular, $46.95, or deluxe, $64.95, both for two people) at El Tiempo Cantina (3130 Richmond, 713-807-1600) is made for... More >>