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2002 Stories by Paul Galvani

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  • Construction Ahead

    published December 26, 2002

    The Nouvelle Po Boy ($12.45) at Angelika Cafe & Bar (501 Texas, 713-225-1609) does not come with assembly instructions. It would be helpful... More >>

  • Quintessential Soul

    published December 19, 2002

    Nothing says soul food like oxtail stew. At Blue Mountain Cafe (8245 West Bellfort, 713-988-4925), it's prepared with a Jamaican flair and... More >>

  • Texas Chick

    published December 12, 2002

    The only problem with chicken-fried chicken (or chicken-fried steak, for that matter) is that you can't eat it with your hands -- not unless you... More >>

  • Pyrotechnically Challenged

    published December 5, 2002

    The fire cracker salmon rolls ($8.95) at The Cheesecake Factory (5015 Westheimer, 713-840-0600) may not sparkle or light up. They do,... More >>

  • A Slice of Chocolate, Please

    published November 28, 2002

    Pizza is the last thing you'd expect to find at The Chocolate Bar (1835 West Alabama, 713-520-8599), a store dedicated to those with a... More >>

  • Sepia Tone

    published November 7, 2002

    The Latin name for cuttlefish is sepia; the color is named for the ink it uses to warn off predators. A cousin to squid and octopus, only... More >>

  • Master Baker

    published October 31, 2002

    If you consider the French to be the best bakers on the planet, then you probably also believe the humble croissant to be the quintessential... More >>

  • Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy

    published October 10, 2002

    "Burger and fries" and "healthy" don't usually go together -- unless, of course, you're talking about the burgers and fries ($5.50 to $6.50) at... More >>

  • The Squeaky Wheel

    published September 26, 2002

    The menu at The Black Labrador (4100 Montrose, 713-529-1199) has a quaint description of the British comfort food known as bubble and... More >>

  • Fast Snails

    published September 5, 2002

    One of the most popular appetizers at Crostini (2411 S. Shepherd, 713-524-8558) is the lumache (snails) with grilled polenta... More >>

  • Tuna Melt

    published August 29, 2002

    At The Fish (309 Gray, 713-526-5294), the presentation of each dish is as dramatic as the restaurant's decor. The spicy tuna rice salad... More >>

  • Blazing Burger

    published August 15, 2002

    The first bite of the Five Alarm Burger ($7.29) at Red Robin Gourmet Burgers & Spirits (7620 Katy Freeway, 713-476-9096) gave little... More >>

  • Sounds Fishy

    published August 8, 2002

    They belong in a Caesar salad, on top of a traditional pizza, in bagna cauda (the delicious hot vegetable dip) or in a puttanesca pasta... More >>

  • Lost and Found

    published August 1, 2002

    It's not easy to find The Lost River Grille (7620 Katy Freeway, 713-680-2800), since it seems to be connected to Spellbinder's Variety... More >>

  • Light Blue Special

    published July 25, 2002

    The Rainbow Lodge (1 Birdsall, 713-861-8666) is blessed with spectacular views overlooking Buffalo Bayou -- and a spectacular Texas blue... More >>

  • Doesn't Taste Like Chicken

    published July 11, 2002

    The menu at Tila's Restaurante and Bar (1111 South Shepherd, 713-522-7654) simply calls this entrée Chicken Endive ($12.95). But... More >>

  • Focacciaboutit

    published July 4, 2002

    The focaccia sandwiches at Dolce & Freddo (5515 Kirby, 713-521-3260; 7595 San Felipe, 713-789-0219) are unexpected because they are neither... More >>

  • Chip Off the Old Block

    published June 27, 2002

    When it comes to food, there are three things any self-respecting Englishman will search for no matter where in the world he finds himself: a good... More >>

  • Allium Breath

    published June 6, 2002

    Onions are simple vegetables, but in the hands of Scott Tycer, the owner-chef of Aries (4315 Montrose, 713-526-4404), they are transformed... More >>

  • Not Just Soup

    published May 23, 2002

    Barry Cohen is a good Jewish guy. You might wonder, then, what he's doing in a church. A banker by profession, Cohen is the brains behind an idea... More >>

  • Da Marco

    published May 23, 2002

    Lingua franca: There's an appetizer on the menu at Da Marco that I'm willing to bet is not available at any other restaurant in... More >>

  • Truth in Advertising

    published May 2, 2002

    I have long been a proponent of honesty in advertising, but when I saw Road Kill Hog Meat on the menu at Daniel Wong's Kitchen (4566... More >>

  • Fruity-Patootie

    published April 25, 2002

    Since 1889, when the classic Pizza Margherita, named in honor of the queen of Italy, was created at the Pizzeria di Pietro in Naples, people have... More >>

  • The Old Switcheroo

    published April 18, 2002

    Almost nine years ago, Givral's Sandwich Shop at 2704 Milam was one of the first Vietnamese sandwich eateries to open in what was to become... More >>

  • The Offering

    published April 11, 2002

    The mixed grill (regular, $46.95, or deluxe, $64.95, both for two people) at El Tiempo Cantina (3130 Richmond, 713-807-1600) is made for... More >>

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